I’m back from a red weekend in Mao’s hometown of Shaoshan and neighbouring metropolis Changsha, in south-central Hunan province. (I had a bet with myself on Twitter as to how many statues of Mao I would see: the bet was 10, the result – cheekily including large busts – 7.) Here, in celebration of the absence of chou dofu from Beijing’s streets, is a mini photo essay of ‘things Mao’.
Pilgrims (mostly on day trips organised by their work units) queue to see …
… Mao Zedong’s childhood bedroom in Shaoshan.
The pilgrims must then dare to walk through the communist tunnel …
… to reach the Mao museum and read a testimonial by the maker of Mao’s pajamas that Mao refused shiny new pajamas even when he was leader of China, continuing to use his shabby old pajamas because he was still one of of the common folk. I’m not sure if I should admit such a private feeling on my blog, but when I read this, I cried.
The lowest form of wit aside, pride in local boy Mao was palpable in Changsha. Most bus drivers I saw had little busts of the chairman in their front windows for good luck (this is rare in Beijing). After all, Mao did come from working all night at this study desk in Changsha in his youth …
… to founding the nation 60 years ago. (A painting from the Hongse Jiyi – ‘red memories’ – exhibit in the Hunan provincial museum.)
And the Chinese people have in those 60 years come from gun-wielding revolutionaries (according to another painting in the exhibit) …
… to cigarette dragging lunch-breakers in an ever more comfortable and strong China. Mission accomplished?
Alec Ash
I studied Mandarin in Beijing, where I began writing this blog in the Olympic summer of 2008